![]() ![]() ![]() I also drive a 26 foot aluminum pilot house walk around with twin yamaha 115s, she cruises at 20 knots at 4500 pm, over 1700 hrs on those motors and counting so I am not too worried. I own a 19' aluminum river sled with a 50hp yamaha that does quite well at 20kt cruise. I think the boat would respond well to more horsepower.īilge keels were a great addition, certainly improved handling in following seas and troughs as well as rolling at anchor. I have heard but not seen claims of 30+ mph with vortec 350s. A sister ship with the same hull and same bilge keels with twin 230hp yanmars has a top speed of 25 knots. The addition of the bilge keels did not reduce top speed, in fact may have increased top speed slightly although I also had fresh bottom paint on a well. Originally outfitted with twin 160 hp diesel engines she put in a top speed of 21 mph after bilge keels. This may surprise some folks but this vessel performs as a planing hull. I have attached some pics, how many places have I gone wrong here? After than glass in a top cap and new swim step to the transom the full width.ĬOG Calculations: Removal of the inboards, installation of outboards appears to move the COG back about 0.3 feet, based on rough calculations. Glass ¾ ply stiffeners on top of the stringers to the transom and to the outboard mount. I’m not sure if I should build a mold, or build the bracket out of marine ply and glass in place. Use extended stringers to create a form for essentially outboard bracket. 66” wide by 30” long by 30” high hull extension to attach outboards to. ¾” plywood knee braces from new stringers to transom glassed in place. Triax between each layer, tabbed back into the hull. Transom Plan: Remove existing wet/rotted wood, go back with 2-3” of layered, staggered marine plywood coated in epoxy. These would have to be cut out and replaced with “smooth bottom” I’m thinking cut out, screw melamine to the underside of the hull as a form, and replace with equal thickness of triax and epoxy, beveled back into the existing hull on all sides and connect to the reinforce transom. Prop Pockets: Boat currently has small prop pockets for the existing inboard props. 30” of each stringer will extend through the current transom. Completely glass over with triaxal fabric and epoxy. Install epoxy coated 4”X8”X10’ beams in the same places with a nice epoxy bog. Stringer Plan: Remove 4 engine stringers by cutting off the glass tops, or the top and one side where needed. No explosion problems as with gas inboards. Cost is only incrementally more than new gas inboards, on par with new diesel inboards. Maintenance is much easier, no winterizing. Why Outboards? Service much better locally than inboards. Why not beef up the transom, run the stringers through the transom to create a hull extension on which to mount two 225-300 hp four stroke outboards? Removed engines are sold in preparation for new power. Stringers, transom and fuel tank bunks all need replaced. Fiberglass is intact, but drilling test holes reveals extensive damage. Long story: Upon removal of the inboard engines last fall I discovered that there is water damage/rot in the stringer system, fuel tank bunks and transom. Short story: Considering converting from twin inboards to twin outboards. This one may be a little more involved than the last one you can see here: Hello again everyone, I’ve got another potential project. ![]()
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